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Itilleq, Greenland: August 16, 2025
Itilleq has just 89 residents. The main industry is fishing, and they have a small fish processing plant in the long blue building near the water. There is a school and a helicopter pad. The settlement had arranged a Kaffemik for us all. This is a traditional event where people are welcomed into homes for food and hot drinks.Once tendered to shore we were told to match a color square to a sign on a house that had the same color. That search took us all over the community unti

Cecilia Clark
Sep 23, 20251 min read


Sisimuit, Greenland: August 15, 2025
Looking toward the open air Museum Sisimuit means "residences at the fox holes." It is Greenland's second largest city with a population of about 5,500 people and 1300 sled dogs. It is the northernmost ice-free, sheltered port in Greenland. This area has been inhabited for the last 4,500 years, and after walking around Sisimuit, it seemed to me that it was the mostly livable city that I had visited so far. It is the fastest growing city in Greenland. The rock face next to the

Cecilia Clark
Sep 23, 20252 min read


Disko Island and Qeqertarsuaq: August 14, 2025
Columnar Basalt at Disko Island Disko Island is the youngest area in Greenland. The rest of Greenland is billions of years old. Basalt lava flowed here only about 60 million years ago when North America and Europe separated. Columnar structures occur when the lava rapidly cools and contracts to create polygonal basalt columns. Despite the roughness of the sea, we cruised around in zodiacs to get a closer look at the basalt structures. In the afternoon we visited the small cit

Cecilia Clark
Sep 22, 20252 min read


Ataa Sound: August 13, 2025
We woke to another beautiful day with glassy water and beautiful reflections. The view on the other side of the ship was of an active...

Cecilia Clark
Sep 21, 20251 min read


Sea Days: August 10 - 12, 2025
The next morning, August 10, the plan for the day had changed. A passenger was having a medical emergency and needed to get back to a...

Cecilia Clark
Sep 20, 20254 min read


Kane Basin and Nares Strait: August 9, 2025
Sea Ice looking east to Greenland We're deep into the sea ice. Last night it sounded like the ship was having quite a fight plowing, ramming, and chopping its way north. Our HX ship is rated for 1.3 m/4.26 feet of first-year ice. It has been an amazing experience and this morning we are still northbound in the Nares Strait. We saw Canada this morning. At the narrowest point in the Nares Strait, the distance between Ellesmere Island and Greenland is 48 k/30 miles. View of Elle

Cecilia Clark
Sep 19, 20252 min read


Etah, Greenland: August 8, 2025
Brother John's Glacier at the head of Foulke Fjord Still heading north, the ship stopped in Foulke Fjord. When we arrived it was very overcast, but the afternoon brought brilliant sunlight and a better view of the fjord. Etah lies on the 4,500 year old ancient migration route for waves of hunter/gatherer people traveling from the Canadian Arctic to Greenland. Etah was the point where the last migration of Inuit from Baffin Island crossed the Nares Strait at Ellesmere Island

Cecilia Clark
Sep 19, 20252 min read


Qaanaaq, Greenland: August 7, 2025
Qaanaaq, Greenland Continuing north along Greenland's west coast, we stopped for several hours at Qaanaaq. We were looking forward to this stop with interest as one of the community ambassadors, Aleq Peary, gave short lectures on the ship about life in Qaanaaq. Additionally, at this stop we had a chance to have tea in a private home (my choice) and also an opportunity to learn how to prepare skins and use them (Dan). In the morning, a small group of the Qaanaaq community visi

Cecilia Clark
Sep 18, 20254 min read


Savissivik, Greenland: August 5, 2025
Savissivik About 10,000 years ago a portion of a 100 tonne (220,500 pound) iron-rich meteorite (estimated weight before it exploded) landed on Meteorite Island. The meteor is known as the Cape York Meteorite; pieces of the meteorite are housed at many museums including the American Museum of Natural History. The Inuit discovered the metal and began breaking off pieces using hammerstones, then shaping the fragments into blades, harpoon tips, and other tools by grinding and po

Cecilia Clark
Sep 18, 20253 min read


Perlerfiup Fjord & Maamorilik, Greenland: August 3, 2025
Perlerfiup Sermia (glacier) Morning brought clouds, fog, and thunder. We were in Perlerfiup Fjord near the glacier of the same name. The glacier thundered, creaked, and rumbled as it adjusted itself. Streams of water exploded out over the rocks and below the ice. The glacier at 609 metres (1,998 feet) high flows from the Greenland ice cap. It is very impressive and a little daunting to be so close to something so cold and powerful. We cruised toward the glacier in a zodiac

Cecilia Clark
Sep 18, 20252 min read


Uummannaq, Greenland: August 2, 2025
Uummannaq Mountain and Island Uummannaq means "heart-shaped mountain" in Greenlandic. The island was named after its split-topped mountain. The "heart shape" of the mountain resembles the heart of a seal. We arrived in beautiful Uummannaq just as the morning fog was lifting. The sun came out and it was warm. According to a local man I spoke with, the weather was unseasonably warm. They hadn't had much rain so far this year. At the dock, the view looking out from Uummannaq was

Cecilia Clark
Sep 18, 20252 min read


Ilulissat, Greenland: August 1, 2025
View of the Icefjord from Ilulissat, Greenland We had a bit of a late start for our West Greenland cruise after fog in Nuuk prevented our flight from leaving Newark, New Jersey, until the next day. There were 12 of us marooned in Newark for a second day. We arrived in Nuuk on the day of departure (July 31) and were quickly transferred to the Hurtigruten Expedition MS Fridtjof Nansen. The ship departed that evening. Fog was dropping fast but a bit of a sunset was visible as we

Cecilia Clark
Sep 18, 20252 min read
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