Mosul to Erbil, Iraq: November 11, 2025

In Mosul, we stayed at the Al-Barone Hotel. After Daesh was defeated in Mosul, the hotel was renovated and has been open for 2-3 years. The backside of the hotel is scar free but the abutting building is still gutted and bears the scars of the battles. Al-Barone Hotel is just 2-3 blocks from the bazaar. Because we weren't leaving for Erbil until late morning, Dan and I walked over to the fish market and bazaar to take a last look. The fish market was already beginning to bustle with activity if not customers.

And then we walked back to the bazaar.

Leaving Mosul behind, we headed to Erbil stopping only at the Kurdistan border to show our passports. Kurdistan is a semi-autonomous region of Iraq. They have their own flag. They didn't suffer much through all the unpleasantness of the wars, battles, and Daesh because the USA has a military base in Kurdistan. Their infrastructure is decades ahead due to their stability. Also their militia is very capable and organized. The largest consulate (USA) in the world will soon open in Erbil.

We checked into the hotel and headed to the center of Erbil's old town where people were enjoying the late afternoon with the mist of fountains. The 6,000 year-old Erbil Citadel rises above the fountain square. In contrast, the clock tower on the other side of the square was built in the 20th century.

Today is Iraq's election day so it was a holiday. That meant the area was crowded and we couldn't walk up to the citadel to watch the sunset. Instead we hung out in front of a tea house watching the customers and everything going on around them. You might think these men sitting facing the same direction are watching TV, but no they are not. They are watching traffic and people go by, chatting, drinking tea, smoking shisha, snacking on roasted sunflower seeds, and some are getting their shoes shined while they are hanging out. When the shoeshine man finished the last pair of shoes, he delivered them, packed up, and went home.

Dinner was at Top Organic Restaurant. They are located in a trendy neighborhood and had a creative menu from burgers to traditional Iraqi choices. And the servers put on a great show.

Cooking Kebab

This was the official end of the Wandering Earl tour to Iraq. Tomorrow is a travel day although several of us were hanging out for an extra day or two.

Tomorrow, Dan and I are going to the Kurdistan Ski Slope.

Serving tea with a flourish